Scents of Smell: A Blind Scent Study Featuring D.S. & Durga

 
Photo Credit: Viola Chip

Photo Credit: Viola Chip

 
Photo Credit: Viola Chip

Photo Credit: Viola Chip

 

Like most things worth enjoying, there’s a level of interpretation to be had, which generates an experience unique to each person. The same reason why some may view Mona Lisa as serene and beautiful and others see mystery, is the reason why I decided to take matters into my own hand and conduct my very own blind scent study using D.S. & Durga's most recent fragrance, Crystal Pistil.

The avant-garde aroma purveyors define this new aromatic potion as a fragrance/enhancer. Similar to its celestial cousin, I Don’t Know What (minus the pheromone iso e super*) it can be worn on its own, or in combination with other transcending perfumes throughout their collection.

 

In some cases, you may even experience what the Germans call ‘sehnsucht,’ or the longing for something you cannot explain.

 
 

I purchased a sample set featuring their perfumes: Crystal Pistil, Rose Atlantic, White Peacock Lily, and Durga. As you would imagine, D.S. & Durga crafts their scents with alchemical precision, which means complex ingredients, some of whose origin is unknown to many. They define the structure of these perfumes as top notes, heart notes and base notes, and list these for each of their fragrances on their site. This is where the blind part of this study comes in. Having never seen the scent structure for any of these perfumes beforehand, I decided I would use my investigative nose to guess the top note, heart note and base note, and compare my findings with the real thing.

Photo Credit: Viola Chip

Photo Credit: Viola Chip

 
 
 
Photo Credit: Viola Chip

Photo Credit: Viola Chip

Before we begin, it’s important to note the ethereal experience you have with D.S. & Durga’s scents that I call a nosegasm. To contextualize, a nosegasm goes beyond ordinary pleasant smells like fresh sheets or clean soap. We’re talking a full-blown, other-worldly, outer-body experience that begins in the nose, rushes straight to your brain and shoots out to your fingertips and toes. In some cases, you may even experience what the Germans call ‘sehnsucht,’ or the longing for something you cannot explain. So for each perfume, I took the creative license to include an illusive description of what I would call the visual accompaniment to my olfactory narcosis.

Keep in mind, I’m no pro here, but I must say my nose has been around the block a few times.

 

Scent 1: Crystal Pistil

Nosegasm: Nighttime garden. A dark blue sky with lush, greenery. Leather sandals and clay brick. Humid tropical air.

My notes:
Top: grapefruit
Heart: black pepper
Base: fresh cotton, aloe

D.S. & Durga:
Top: orange flower, water, dew on petals, pink pepper
Heart: crystal flower parts, paradisone, jasmine water
Base: civettone, white musks, ambrette seeds

Scent 2: Rose Atlantic

Nosegasm: A third glass of white wine and lived-in denim. Frothy waves at dusk. 

My notes:
Top: peach, bergamont
Heart: honey
Base: ocean mist

D.S. & Durga:
Top: bergamot, petals, lemon oil
Heart: linden, rose accord, dune grass
Base: muscone, salt water, white moss

Scent 3: White Peacock Lily

Nosegasm: Delicate silk and pearls. A refined woman, unused to hardship.  

My notes:
Top: rose petals
Heart: champagne
Base: ozone, baby powder

D.S. & Durga:
Top: oleander, cabreuva rouge, grapefruit pith
Heart: white lily cream, egyptian jasmine, alabaster violet
Base: ambrette seed, vanilla, fog

Scent 4: Durga

Nosegasm: Summertime drive after rain. Conditioned leather from a 1989 Mercedes 500SL.  

My notes:
Top: juniper, kaffir lime
Heart: fennel, sandalwood
Base: vanilla

D.S. & Durga:
Top: green tuberose, melon, chrysanthemum
Heart: ylang ylang, orris butter, orange blossom
Base: tuberose absolute, sambac jasmine, fine musc

 
 

Perfume - a common misconception.

Allow me to correct a massive faux pax. You see, for decades, perfumes were always marketed and widely known to be scents specific for women, and alternatively, cologne for men. This couldn’t be further from its etymology. Perfume and colognes are categorizations of scents that are defined by their level of potency of the parts of their sum. A perfume (15–30% aromatic compounds) is a stronger concentration of extract compared to colognes (3–8% aromatic compounds) which is lighter. So gentlemen, when you see the word ‘perfume,’ don’t fret.